Wednesday, September 18, 2013

New Brunswick - Canada's only officially fully bilingual province!

Finally, an update!  We left Newfoundland as expected, the day after we were "stormed in."  We visited more of Nova Scotia, went quickly back through New Brunswick and Quebec, and are now in Southern Ontario, on the verge of hitting Toronto.

Remember, as you go through the blog, to *click* on images you want to see better. They should enlarge when you click on them.  Especially worth clicking on are the long, narrow photos, which are panoramic views of some sort or another.

Returning to our journey in a chronological route, here's some of what we saw in New Brunswick as we made our way along on the route east, after Quebec.

Let's start with a few images from along the road ...





Surrinder had zero preconceived ideas about New Brunswick, and Beresford/Bathurst proved to be a great introduction to the Maritimes. 

Shamir had learned from Deb Lane in Manitoba that a high school classmate was now based in Bathurst.  Shamir hadn't seen her for about 35 years.  Not only was Mariane Paquet delighted to hear from him, she opened up her fabulous home and heart to us. We will remember her kindness and generosity for some time to come!  

We spent 5 days enjoying the beautiful beach, exquisite food, great company, music, and wine ... it was hard to leave. She gave us a break from the van at an opportune time in the journey -- it was nice to live in a house again for a few days.  Mariane had a huge yard with a wonderful vegetable garden, literally a short block from the beach.  



Surrinder thoroughly enjoyed the garden and tried not miss her own so much!  



And we went for two walks on the beach in one day!  



Surrinder took the opportunity to bake muffins, peach/yogurt and bran/raisin ... 30 muffins in total!  She definitely misses baking and having an oven!  We also made lots of popcorn the old fashioned way ... in a large soup pot with oil and a lid -- very tasty!











Mariane introduced us to her neighbour, Lorenzo, who made us an authentic Acadian seafood chowder ... one bowl and we were full!  






We joined Mariane and Lorenzo in a long drive to a concert at the renowned Lameque International Baroque Music Festival.  Though the rains were ultra-heavy that day, Lorenzo showed us so much about his native Acadian fishing coast that our spirits were not dampened, so to speak.

The church was unusual -- have a look at the interior colours.  Surrinder thought it ugly, but Shamir liked it.  The four of us were unanimous that the music was glorious, however!  The young soprano, Samantha Louis-Jean, had a beautiful voice and was simply gorgeous (she looked a little bit like Bree, our daughter-in-law).





We were also treated to a local day trip to a beautiful nearby falls:










We left Bathurst with full hearts and bigger bellies! Surrinder feels very grateful for all the wonderful friends and family Shamir has brought into her life.

We continued to explore New Brunswick along the coast and ran into a soap factory -- Olivier Soapery.  Along with demonstrations of soap-making and a tour of the factory, we took advantage of their exterior hot shower facilities, to test out the soaps we had bought!









Further along, we stopped for the night at Pointe Sapin, across from a man-made fishing harbour.  We were able to watch the lobster fishermen bringing their thousands of traps to the wharves, getting ready for the lobster opening a few days later. 







Daytime view ...
Same scene at night!
The next morning, we walked along the beach nearby, seeing marvellous rock formations, sea-tossed lobster traps ... even a beautiful church nearby.































The weather can be severe ...

Continuing along the coast, we stopped at Kouchibougouac National Park, taking in some salt marshes and more beautiful beaches.





Look closely at the family ... look for "concrete" evidence of their activity ...
Family Guy watchers ... now you know where "Quahog" comes from ...
To end our visit  to New Brunswick, we "u-picked" some delicious low growing blueberries.




One final observation ... in the Superstores in Atlantic Canada, you can buy freshly baked bread ... choose how you want to slice it.  See below ...




As for the title of this post ... we didn't realize that New Brunswick is the only province whose official policy ... and practice ... is to be fully bilingual.  You hear a lot of French in parts of Ontario, Nova Scotia, even PEI and small parts of Newfoundland (in addition to pockets in Alberta, Saskatchewan, and Manitoba) ... but only New Brunswick makes if a formal province-wide policy.  And Quebec is officially unilingually French.  Vive le Nouveau Brunswick!





Tuesday, September 3, 2013

Newfoundland weather ...

We have ferry tickets to depart today ... but the weather decided to play Newfoundland with us.  The Wreckhouse Winds are upon us, so the ferry will stay in dock and not depart until tomorrow ... weather permitting!  

Here's where we are, at Port-aux-Basques, the ferry terminal to Nova Scotia:




Port-aux-Basques yesterday, before the weather change ...



Read about the Wreckhouse Winds, and a CBC news article from 2008, illustrating their force .  The term "Wreckhouse Winds" was actually added to the Canadian Oxford English Dictionary in 2004, referring to these specific winds in southwestern Newfoundland!  Environment Canada's weather advisory for today says the following:

Warnings

Channel-Port aux Basques and vicinity
10:45 AM NDT Tuesday 03 September 2013
Wreckhouse wind warning for 
Channel-Port aux Basques and vicinity continued

Southeasterly wind gusts of 100 km/h are expected in the Wreckhouse area today and tonight.

This is a warning that potentially hazardous winds are expected in the Wreckhouse area of Southwestern Newfoundland. Monitor weather conditions..listen for updated statements.

A trough of low pressure over Quebec will track northeastward over Newfoundland tonight before moving off to the north on Wednesday. Southeasterly wind gusts near 100 km/h are currently being reported in the Wreckhouse area. These strong winds will persist through this afternoon and tonight before subsiding on Wednesday morning as they veer to the southwest. 

We'll happily stay put in Port-aux-Basques for the day, thanks!  We love public libraries throughout Canada, and there is one here in Port-aux-Basques, where we are, so you might get an extra blog out of us today!

Newfoundlanders are indeed among the friendliest folks we've met on the trip overall.  As we were getting ready to leave the ferry terminal to spend the day elsewhere, Mr. Fred Wells engaged us in a chat ... which took close to an hour, and gave each of us a wonderful photo tour on his digital camera of the houses and decks he's built, the snowmobile he loves to drive ... and all since he retired 4 years ago from being a Highways Department supervisor, checking the condition of the highways in this region!


Fred Wells and his wife, in the ferry lineup, before we each left for the day

Up the St. Lawrence ... part of the way to Gaspe ...(with apologies to Gordon Lightfoot - Canadian Railroad Trilogy ...)

After leaving Quebec City, we went along the north shore of the St. Lawrence, through the lovely countryside where many people still live on small farms. Simple, beautiful countryside. 





So many gorgeous bays, one almost gets blasé. Almost ... 





Upon reaching the whale-watching centre of Tadoussac, where the great Saguenay Fjord meets the St. Lawrence, we couldn't stomach the extreme touristiness. We ended up spending the night up on a cliff overlooking the St. Lawrence (by now, the salt-water "St. Lawrence Seaway" rather than just the "River"). A perfect example of the flexibility our camper van gives us. We just decided to stay the night, once we saw the amazing location



It was an incredible whale watching vantage point overlooking the mighty St. Lawrence.


Click on the photo to enlarge this panorama of the view we had!
As if that wasn't enough, the magic began as the night fell.  The full moon rose directly in front of us, reflecting into the Seaway. Breathtaking! 




 


And then the morning.  Magical mists weaving around the water, in turns showing, then hiding what lay below ...





The next day, once we determined where best to cross the seaway, we got on the ferry instead of of going on the "whale-chasing" boats. 


One of the "whale-chasers"
Luck was on our side. What a thrill to see Beluga whales from the ferry!!!  Definitely, Surrinder's favourite sea mammal.


Elusive to capture in still photos ... here's one of the belugas.  We caught more on video ...

Life sized sculptures outside the Marine Mammal Interpretation Centre
After crossing to the south shore of the St. Lawrence, we decided to pass on the Gaspe this time, and press on to New Brunswick. The tiny bit of the Gaspe which we caught en route was beautiful, though.