Saturday, August 31, 2013

Ville de Quebec

Old Quebec City  - Charming as it is Beautiful!

Old Quebec City is surrounded by a stone wall built to protect it at different times from the English and from the Americans. It is the only walled city remaining in North America, in a dramatic setting high on a cliff overlooking the St. Lawrence River. Within its walls is the Citadelle de Quebec, a fortress whose history started some four hundred years ago. 



Throngs of tourists ...






The Chateau Frontenac, reputedly the most photographed hotel in the world, is also within the Old City. 





Our arrival in Quebec City was heralded by the rain we have encountered in all 10 provinces (this is being written while we're in Newfoundland!)



Convenient way to clean the feet.  A bit cool for showering, though! ...
Though there is a rich network of freeways and highways through the much larger modern city, we were quite frustrated that so many were under repair or construction. There may have been some labour disputes, apparently.

The limitations of GPS navigation became evident as we kept getting directed to take highways or exits which were closed. On the other hand, the GPS can be credited with keeping our relationship relatively intact, and keeping Shamir from pulling out what hair he has left, in frustration, as we worked our way around complex routings all across the country. His sanity might be questioned, though, as he mutters or yells at the inanimate GPS affixed to the windshield with its paradoxical instructions to bear left, then turn right ... or to stay in the right lane ... then turn left! 

Fortunately for Surrinder, Shamir's relative comfort and fluency in French made being in Quebec feel less foreign. We were pleased to have people start up conversations with us, probably surprised that we could speak to them in French.  
In view of the last federal election results bringing in NDP, rather than Bloq Quebecois MPs, times may have changed.  Perhaps most young people don't feel a burning pressure or need to separate from Canada. On the other hand, the Parti Quebecois' (provincial) recent bizarre bungling into matters of religious symbols such as headgear really make us wonder.  Given that the PQ has a minority government, one hopes this will never see the light of day.  Certainly a head-scratcher ...


Slogan also found on the current license plates (we prefer the original "La Belle Province", which used to be on the license plates ...)
Meanwhile, the Quebec fascination with things British continues ... Paul McCartney was to play on the Plains of Abraham the day after we left. Shamir was in Quebec in 1981 for a civil law / common law exchange program.  He recalls that those most fascinated with the Chuck/Di wedding in 1981 were his Quebecois colleagues. Several were up in the middle of the night to watch the nuptials live on TV.
Sir Paul concert stage preps on the Plains of Abraham
Meanwhile, "Vive la difference!" -- we enjoyed the flavour of francophone culture in its fascinating distinctiveness ... yet Canadian familiarity. Surrinder loved the French influenced architecture, with its elegant buildings so pleasing to look at.



More images of Quebec City ...




Samuel de Champlain, "Father of New France", founder of Quebec City
 



Yep, we found him here, too ... made us feel good.

We stayed here one night ... the van gives us great flexibility.


The St. Laurent felt like Vancouver Harbour!
The Changing of the Guard ceremony is alive and well at the Citadelle de Quebec -- this is where the "Van Doos" are based - a corruption of the French for 22 (Vingt Deux) - they are the Royal 22nd Regiment ...

Saturday, August 24, 2013

Newfoundland. .. and Rogers (grrr!)

A very quick note to let you know that we're currently in Newfoundland and are well. It turns out that Rogers has virtually no cell phone coverage in Newfoundland,  though their customer service folks apparently tell people otherwise. So, other than in St. John's, and just this year in some parts of Corner Brook, there is NO Rogers cell phone or Internet availability in Newfoundland. Bell has solid coverage throughout as I believe does Telus... but not Rogers.

So we're fine, but we continue to be way behind in the blog, and the Rogers situation is why we haven't been able to email or phone recently.  (Found some WiFi at the moment so thought we'd let you know).

And by the way, Newfoundland is indeed spectacular! More soon. ..


Wednesday, August 14, 2013

La Belle Province - Montreal ...

At first, reaching La Belle Province felt like overseas travel -- signs were in French, people spoke French first.  Seeing the same ubiquitous box stores took away from that ... though in Quebec, instead of Swiss Chalet for chicken, you see St. Hubert, a highly successful restaurant chain which even owns motels.  



The fine wine list signals that you're not in Ontario any more ...

On the way to Montreal, we stopped at a National Historic Site, Papineau Estate. 
The path to Papineau Estate

Shamir was delighted, having done a paper on Louis-Joseph Papineau in high school.  After being instrumental in the Lower Canada rebellion in 1837, Papineau eventually lived the life of the rich seigneur he was, after some years in exile.  For a feudal landlord, it seems he was decent to the people, and apparently well liked.  He had one of the largest libraries of the day. 



Surrinder felt the magnificent home was more like a small castle than a house.  Unfortunately, we weren't allowed to take photos inside, so we can't show you.

Montreal - The Olde and Unique

Montreal is unique in so many interesting ways. Mount Royal is a mountain that dominates and pretty well divides up the city into separate areas. 


Panorama from Mont Royal
Plenty of density, but at a human scale -- are you listening, City of Vancouver??!  Very different from the highrise "people-isolaters" we are now accustomed to in Vancouver.  

Mount Royal's cemeteries are beautiful, and huge!  





We looked for Pierre Elliott Trudeau's grave, but it turned out he is buried elsewhere in Quebec, in a family cemetery.  We found Jean Drapeau, however. 



We also found a home Leonard Cohen owns and apparently lives in when in town, near rue Marie-Anne (echos of his song "So Long, Marianne"?).  When we went by, there was a light on inside.  Was it him? ...


Leonard Cohen's home in Montreal

A light inside ...
The heat and humidity made it extremely difficult for Surrinder to explore much of the city.  People survive the heat by going out at night with their kids to play and swim, etc.  Similarly, we spent a lot of time in the shade in many of the parks in the city.  We love Monreal's parks!  



A lesser strategy for us (Surrinder doesn't like air conditioning) was going to air-conditioned coffee shops to work on the blog!  

We were in caught in the middle of downtown during a severe thunderstorm one day, in which about 30 mm of rain fell within 15 minutes!!  It actually made the national news.  The van (and we) were fine, however, and came through unscathed. 

We toured Notre Dame Basilica -- hard to describe its majesty and beauty in mere words or even photographs.  





The Chapel
Amazing pulpit, from which The Three Tenors sang once ...



Shamir first saw it in 1975, and was blown away.  Even after now seeing major churches and other religious buildings around the world, seeing it again was just as breathtaking.  For the star-struck, Celine Dion and Rene Angelil were married in this church.












Bicycle traffic in this city actually works.  You see people on bikes all over the place.  They are definitely a serious form of transportation. 



Ah, the French.  Equipped for any emergency ...
A sign of bike success - there are so many that some people are worried about their railings being damaged by bike locks
The Bixi rental bikes are everywhere, and are very reasonably priced -- once you have paid a fee to access the system, a trip of half an hour or less is free, and an hour costs $1.75.  Best of all, there are some 400 stations around the city, all over the place, and over 5,000 bikes.  


A Bixi stand
Let's hope Vancouver gets its system "rolling" (heh heh) soon!  A phrase from Surrinder (so you don't get any wrong ideas!) -- "elegant French women in short summer dresses riding bicycles ... a lovely sight indeed!"  

Which brings us to Shamir's nephew, Justin.  He and his girlfriend, Caitlin, are bike people.  That's how they get around.  And Justin works at Fitz and Folwell, a bicycle store which specializes in bike tours of the city, and bike sales and servicing.

  

 


Located sensibly near one of the large parks, it seems to be thriving.  And, to be sure, Justin and Caitlin live in one of those interesting three storey walk-ups in one of the "hipster" areas of town near St. Viateur Street.  


The magnificent church on the front left is a landmark at St. Viateur and St. Urbain, near Justin's place
We enjoyed bagels from both Montreal's major bagleries (yep, it's a real word - looked it up!) -- St. Viateur and Fairmount -- both located within easy walking distance of Justin and Caitlin and so busy that both are open 24 hours! 

One ethnic group was significantly visible in the Outremont area of MontrĂ©al - Hasidic Jews.  We certainly have not seen such a visible concentration anywhere else in Canada, nor is it likely that there is such a number elsewhere.  The area speaks of old, establishment wealth.  The houses are beautiful, and the area is rich with parks.  


In Outremont Park
Mordecai Richler came to mind ... especially when we went along St-Urbain St. (think St. Urbain's Horsemen ...)

Surrinder loved the fact that Montreal has 225 sculptures outside in public spaces, a real treat! She would love to come back again, but not during another heat wave, please!